We live on a hillside, and could not get a tractor to do any ground prep for other mud-control ideas so found these grids and wanted to try due to the very little prep required.

Sometimes there is water over it but I and the horses can still walk on it without sinking in. Put the grids down about 3 wide and 5 long – no longer a problem. The water would come off the roof and make a huge mud area that the horses refused to go through (they can use another door), but I wanted to make this a separate area for one horse. It has been in almost a year and I never have had mud issues, can always get to the gate.Ģ) was along the arena as an alleyway out of the barn. Opened the gate and Drachma went right over it. I think it took about an hour or so to put them in place and the metal fence on top. I put the grids down about 6 rows wide and 12/14 tiles long. Often he got left in as I couldn’t make it to the gate to open. 1) I have a bid National Show Horse (16 1/2 hands probably 1400 pounds) that uses a pasture connected to his mud paddock (which has a portion of it done with gravel, plastic grid and filled with sand, and another portion that is with geo tech fabric and gravel as a driveway) but the gateway area (which has a pond beyond that I have tried to drain the area to) was a constant mud puddle. They can be put down by yourself with little to no ground preparation. The mud grids appear to be the best solution. Having had horses for 60 years (I am 73) on my own property, the problems are endless. I probably have every mud solution somewhere on my property with the horses: from the solid concrete to just fill and everything in between. For very large areas, a 2” gap can be introduced every 100 grids if desired. The recommended ¼” gap between grids covers a temperature change of over 140☏/60☌. Mud Control Grids expand by ¼ ” per unit per 50☏/10☌ change. Top up the sand each year to keep surfaces looking good and in top condition. We recommend a final 2–4” layer of quarried sharp sand – not recycled sand. If using gravel, make sure all gravel is cleared from the surface before use.ĪLWAYS use a topping layer (sand or similar), especially when Mud Control Grids are to be used by animals or livestock. A ton of sand or gravel will fill around 140 grids (375 ft2 ). Coarse sharp sand is ideal or ¼–⅝” gravel can also be used. When the Mud Control Grids have been installed, the grid holes can be filled with permeable material. Small adjustments to maintain alignment can be done with a lever. Use the other half grid at the end of the row. Lay the second row, leaving a ¼” gap between the first row and between each new grid. To create a staggered bond, begin the second row with a half grid (grids can be cut with a skill or bench saw, just like hardwood). It’s best to stagger the grids for extra stability. Use the tabs on the Mud Control Grid edges for level alignment. Lay the grids along the line, leaving a ¼” gap between grids. Use a string line as a level and alignment guide (allowing for adjacent edging or fencing). For soil types like heavy clay, installing a non-woven needle-punched 3.5 oz geotextile (with 6” overlap) will prevent the gradual loss of infill material into the ground. Mark out and level the installation area, filling any dips or depressions with granular material. A 2–4” layer of wood chips can also be used to create a flexible base. For very soft ground, longer lasting installations or even just a more attractive finish, follow the steps below:īefore installing the grids, a 2” gravel layer will improve support and drainage for very soft ground. In most cases, including horse or tractor use, Mud Control Grids can be laid directly onto mud without any ground preparation.

Manufactured from 100% recycled plastic bags » Over 21 million square feet installed over past 20 years » Interlocking design enables easy and quick installation » Low maintenance and cost effective throughout the product life » Durable, non-rotting and weather resistant » Excellent water drainage through the surface

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